How Waves are Made
1. Waves are mainly a product of the wind.
2. The best waves for surfing are the result of the interaction of winds on the surface of the ocean, far away from the coast.
3. Wind is the first step in the formation of surfable waves.
4. Local shore winds can also produce waves, but they can also destroy the quality of the breaking waves.
5. Onshore winds are typically known for creating choppy and bumpy waves because their effect is added to the direction of the wave.
6. In a way, offshore winds are a sort of a counterbalance.
7. Swell comes from miles away and the ground wind works as a "pause - hold" effect on the wave face, allowing longer unbreakable waves.
8. In theory, low pressure systems are responsible for creating good and strong waves.
9. In deep low pressure systems, wind speed is greater and more waves are generated by the power of the gusts.
10. The friction created by these winds helps to form energy waves that will travel thousands of miles until hitting final obstacles, which means, coastal areas where we live.
11. The wind created in low pressure systems keep blowing the surface of the ocean for a long time, swells will be bigger because energy is accumulated in all waves produced.
12. Also, if low pressure winds affect a very large area of the ocean, all waves produced by the swell will have even more energy and power, resulting in even bigger waves.
13. We've already analyzed the "birth" of swell and correspondent waves, but there's a large distance to be traveled by those waves.
14. Original oceanic waves may have to run a long journey until they reach continental beaches.
15. The height of a wave when it is created is not the height of the waves that is ridden by a surfer.
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By Sam
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