How Waves are Made
- Waves are mainly a product of the wind.
- Low pressure systems are responsible for creating good and strong waves.
- The friction created by strong winds helps to form energy waves that will travel thousands of miles until hitting final obstacles, which means, coastal areas where we live.
- In deep low pressure systems, wind speed is greater and more waves are generated by the power of the gusts.
- If winds created in low pressure systems keep blowing the surface of the ocean for a long time, swells will be bigger because energy is accumulated in all waves produced.
The link I got my information from is How Waves are Made.